Our plane landed at SJD early in the day. Scott and I breeze through customs, and head straight for the taxis with our carry on sized backpacks. We are laughing and talking about our next move since we hadn’t made any solid plans for the trip. Things are going smooth, but as we move to make our exit- we are flagged down by a guy with a clip board. Instantly unimpressed we tried to weasel our way out of any commitments…but they captured our attention with offers of free food, cruises, and horseback riding. We like free shit and that’s how we got suckered into doing a time share tour. And while it was pretty obnoxious and lasted way longer than they said it would, we did get free breakfast and an epic cruise. And we continued to sneak into the resort throughout the course of our trip which was pretty rad too 🙂
The time share company arranged a shuttle to our hostel in San Jose del Cabo for us. We sat next to a younger guy who was participating in the Iron Man competition that week and a very inebriated middle aged woman who was not subtle about wanting to get in his pants. When the bus came to a halt someone asked if it was the stop for Cabo San Lucas and the drunk lady yelled- “hell no! This is where all the old people stay!”… We burst out laughing and carried our bags out to the streets of San Jose del Cabo. We stayed at a hostel called Señor Mañana Posada. The town was cute and quiet, full of art galleries and secluded beaches. Still relatively pricey and touristy for us though.
We bussed to Cabo San Lucas the next day, did the whole timeshare thing, and stayed at Hostel Cactus, which was a cheap hostel with very nice staff, intermittent a/c, a rooftop patio that closes at 11, and free breakfast consisting of coffee, fruit, toast, cereal, and burritos. It was right down town and had good vibes. Cabo is the Vegas of Baja, except beautiful. We were offered drugs around every corner and the strip clubs were plentiful. Not really our jam…but it was a quick 2-3 hour bus ride the next day to our first real destination, LaPaz.
We were considering buying property nearby and it was also the week of Dia de los Muertos. During the day we explored LaPaz (a town full of art, culture, and gorgeous beaches) and at night we participated in a huge multi-day Dia de los Muertos celebration filled with thousands of people, Catrinas, live music, dancing, alters, and tamales. DDLM is my favorite holiday, and if you haven’t seen any pics of me, I am covered in sugar skull tattoos. This was a dream come true. We stayed in two great air bnb apartments for around 60$ a night- kind of pricey but super great locations and views. One of them was on top of an expresso shop- so that was amazing.
After a few days we were exhausted from the noise in the city ( bars are open till like 5 in the morning there and people in LaPaz apparently know how to party way better than me). We said our goodbyes and bought bus tickets to a small town on the pacific coast. Todos Santos is the nearest town to Yandara- the yoga school Scott and I went to when we first started dating. Tiny tv screens played a kids cartoon about cock fighting on the bus ride over. We checked into our run down hotel room and after some hangry wandering found our favorite coffe house, cafe Felix. The town is lovely- Artsy, friendly, not too pricey, and reaaaaal pretty. The beach is sketchy and not good for swimming in most places, which is a bummer. The hotel we stayed at was called the Miramar, and it had several reviews regarding vicious dog attacks occurring on the way from town to the hotel… We still booked it because it was the cheapest room we could find. We did not encounter vicious dogs, but the reviews regarding the slightly creepy caretaker were more accurate. Poor guy.
Twelve days whizzes by traveling with me. I call it making the most our trip… Scott calls it “death marching”. It pisses him off. I try to make time to chill and schedule days to relax so he doesn’t strangle me. We chilled our last couple days back in Cabo at hostel Cactus again after not being able to make any last minute air bnb bookings there. We snuck back into the timeshare we toured and enjoyed their pools between dips in the ocean. *For the record I don’t formally promote trespassing…remember, that’s how the movie “Brokedown Palace” started…*
At sunset on our last night -which was also the night of the US presidential elections- we got cheap 60 minute massages from a place called “Bety’s” on the beach. We expected it to be a lame tourist trap, but they were actually really amazing!
We were attempting a media blackout during the election but the results were being broadcast as we rolled into our hostel. We glanced at the numbers in disbelief as we walked straight to our room for a night of worried, restless sleep. We woke up in the morning and saw the results on everyone’s faces…Mexico was scared. We were scared. The peso lost value overnight and the future relationship between Mexico and the US suddenly became very uncertain. We sat on the roof and stared out at the ocean, soaking it all in. We then got on a crowded bus heading to the airport and stood in silence with our backpacks between our feet. On one of the first stops a guitarist boarded the bus and played songs about god with a smile that could power ten solar panels. His music lifted my heart. I popped a xanax and took a deep breath as I headed into the airport. Every part of me wanted to stay, but I had obligations at home. I needed to be there to lay the foundation for our next adventure: our return to Costa Rica 🇨🇷